Hanoi & Ha Long Bay: Chaos, Cruises & Captivating Streets
- adriana hamelin
- Mar 9
- 5 min read
Updated: Mar 22
Arriving in Vietnam: Hanoi & Ha Long Bay
Our journey to Vietnam started with a flight from Chiang Mai, Thailand, to Hanoi, Vietnam, on AirAsia. At the check-in counter in Chiang Mai, we had to show our visas, which I had stored on my phone. When we landed in Hanoi, we found ourselves in a long line for passport control. Surprisingly, we didn’t have to show our visas again, but immigration officers saw each person one by one. By the time we made it through, our backpacks had already been taken off the carousel and placed to the side—something to keep in mind if you’re arriving at a busy time!
Once we cleared customs (quick if you have nothing to declare), we stepped outside into a wave of chaos. Taxi drivers swarmed us, offering rides even as we pulled out our phones to book a Grab. My husband even pretended to talk to someone on the phone just to make them leave us alone. For Grab, we had to walk to pillar 11 and wait about five minutes before hopping into our car. We opted for GrabPlus, which offers five-star drivers with nice cars—definitely worth it for the 50-minute ride into the city.
Ha Long Bay Cruise: Worth It?
Hanoi was just a pit stop for us before heading to Ha Long Bay, where we booked a 3-day, 2-night cruise. Would I recommend it? Honestly, I’m not sure. Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and on a sunny day, I imagine it’s breathtaking. But with crowds, countless boats, and noticeable pollution, it didn’t quite live up to expectations. Fishermen are working to clean up the area, and I really hope they succeed because it has the potential to be stunning. There are about 2,000 islands in Ha Long Bay, and on the second day, we also explored nearby Lan Ha Bay. If you’re considering this trip, also know that WiFi and cell signal are unreliable.
Day 1: Sung Sot Cave & Titop Island
Sung Sot Cave
This cave was a nice surprise. It’s about 10,000 sqm (3 km long) and divided into three zones. The first two are small, but then you enter a massive open space filled with stalactites and stalagmites. Unfortunately, they’re mostly dead.
The walk includes 175 steps up at the start and 250 steps down at the end. If you have health issues, it might be best to skip it.
It was discovered in 1901 by a French explorer but has only been open to the public for about 10 years.
Ti Top Island
You can either hike up 400 steps to a viewpoint or go for a swim.
We opted for the hike, which turned out to be standing in line on a staircase with too many people. It took 40 minutes round trip just to take a few photos at the top.
After seeing all the garbage in the water, swimming was out of the question for us.
Back on the boat, we skipped the Vietnamese cooking demonstration and happy hour in favor of a nap. Dinner was good, but afterward, there wasn’t much to do, so we called it a night.
Day 2: The Long Day Boat Ride
If I could do it over again, I’d skip the second night on the cruise. We spent 7-8 hours on a slow-moving boat, visiting different areas of Ha Long Bay and Lan Ha Bay. The highlights:
Kayaking or a small boat ride to a cave—the cave itself wasn’t much, but it led to a small beach, which made for a great photo op.
A swimming stop—but with the cold water and visible trash, no one was really interested.
Lunch—honestly, the best part of the day!
The Pearl Farm—a total tourist trap.
On the cruise, we also had the chance to try some unique dishes, including Shrimp Floss and a few others that weren’t easily translated into English. It was a bit of a guessing game, but it added to the experience!
Day 3: Skipping Activities & Heading Back
Most of us skipped the early morning kayaking at Luon Cave because we didn’t want another disappointing excursion. Instead, we slept in and relaxed before the boat made its way back to the dock. From there, it was a minimum two-hour drive back to Hanoi. Some of the friends we made were heading to Ninh Binh, which in hindsight, sounds like it might have been a better choice!
A Quick Visit to Hanoi: Train Street
We had just enough time in Hanoi to visit Train Street—a narrow street where a train passes incredibly close to cafés and restaurants. We took a Grab there and had time to wander before grabbing a bite to eat at a café. The train was slightly delayed, so patience is key, but the experience was definitely worth it. Walking along the colorful tracks and feeling the train rush past just inches from where we sat was pretty cool!
While in Hanoi, we couldn’t resist indulging in a bowl of Chicken Pho, which we love. We also tried Bun Cha, a dish that originated in Hanoi. It comes with noodles and grilled pork, which you dip into a bowl of fish sauce served alongside—it was delicious!
We had heard mixed reviews about Vietnamese coffee, and our first experiences in Hanoi and on the cruise didn’t impress us. The black coffee we tried was quite strong and bitter, but we learned that the popular way to drink it is with condensed milk, which balances the flavor. Later, in Da Nang, we gave it another try—this time served iced with a touch of sugar—and it turned out to be much better!
Leaving Hanoi: Airport Tips
For our domestic flight, we flew out of Terminal 1 in Hanoi. A few things to keep in mind:
There’s no separate bag drop, so you must check in at the counter.
Security is strict—you need to remove shoes, watches, and belts to avoid setting off the scanners. I learned this the hard way after having to go through twice.
Final Tip for Vietnam
Hotel Check-outs: Plan an extra 5 minutes—they require a signature and manually charge your credit card, even if they have it on file.
Final Thoughts
Would I go back to Ha Long Bay? Probably not, but I would suggest only a day trip or a 1-night cruise. The scenery is beautiful, but the overwhelming number of boats, tourists, and pollution took away from the magic. If you’re looking for a more peaceful experience, I’d suggest researching less crowded alternatives.
Next stop: Onward to explore more of Vietnam!
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