From Sicily to Calabria to the Amalfi Coast: A Winter Journey

Our adventure began with a ferry ride from Messina to Villa San Giovanni with our electric car. We didn't book in advance, simply waited for the next ferry, and the process was surprisingly quick and smooth.

Reggio Calabria: A Quick Stop - 1 night

Reggio Calabria was our first stop, albeit too brief with only one night to spare. Picture this: December, 13°C, and rain on the radar. Not the ideal moment to explore Calabria for the first time, but we made the best of it.

We indulged in 'nduja, a spicy but delightful local specialty, during a lovely meal. Our stay at Domea Superior Rooms Bed and Breakfast was fantastic; its location allowed us to walk to the Duomo the next morning. While the Castello was accessible, we wouldn’t recommend it as there wasn’t much to see.

What We Missed and Plan to Do Next Time:

We regretted skipping the Archaeological Museum to view the famous Riace bronzes, so consider adding that to your itinerary.

Scenic Stops En Route to Tropea

On the way to Tropea, we enjoyed two breathtaking viewpoints:

Belvedere de Scilla – A stunning lookout over the sea.
Belvedere de Capo Vaticano – Perfect for sunsets and views of the Aeolian Islands when the skies are clear. Waze led us through a narrow, treacherous side road, but it added to the adventure.

Exploring Tropea - 2 nights

Tropea welcomed us with charm. We parked near the ZTL (limited traffic zone) as our hotel was within the walking area. This picturesque town, though quieter in December, had plenty of open restaurants.

The bergamot fruit is a regional staple, and instead of the usual limoncello, we sampled a bergamot-infused liqueur. While the weather wasn’t ideal for a swim, we descended the many steps to the beach, enjoyed the sound of the waves, and even used the outdoor exercise park. We missed the lighting of the Christmas decorations on December 7th, an event that draws many visitors.

Pizzo and Beyond

In Pizzo, we discovered that Tartufo, their famous ice cream, is made with whole milk only, so we had to pass. Many establishments were closed, making this stop feel skippable. However, we did visit La Chiesetta di Piedigrotta, which was closed but visible from the outside. The surrounding beach and waves offered a serene experience.

Gizzeria: A Hidden Gem - 2 nights

To break up our journey to Morano Calabro, we stayed at Hang Loose Cottage Hotel & Resort in Gizzeria. This spot exceeded our expectations. Known for its kite surfing school, the nearby lido sits on a vast stretch of sandy beach, approximately 1 km from the resort. Around 2 PM, the wind picks up daily like clockwork. If ever we wanted to try kite surfing, I would come back to Hang Loose. We enjoyed a workout and even took a dip in the cold pool on a sunny day – our last truly warm moment of the trip.

Morano Calabro and the Appennine Mountains - 2 nights

Our next destination was Morano Calabro, nestled in the Appennine mountains and close to Italy’s largest national park. The town’s charm lies in its dramatic setting. After exploring the Gole dell'Alcantara in Sicily, which was a really nice adventure, we learned about the nearby gorges, but the latter tragically closed after a deadly incident six years ago. We viewed them from above but couldn’t explore further.

On the way:

Despite the weather challenges, standing before the ancient Upper Paleolithic engraving in Grotta del Romito left us speechless— a single yet exquisite masterpiece connecting us to humanity's distant past. Located near Papasidero, this natural limestone cave holds evidence of prolonged paleo-human occupation, with excavations revealing layers dating back 17,000 years to the Upper Paleolithic and 6,400 years to the Neolithic.

Heading to Agropoli - 2 nights

The curvy mountain roads eventually led us back to the highway for our final drive toward Agropoli, a gateway to the Amalfi Coast. Despite the wintry conditions, our journey through Calabria was filled with unique experiences, scenic beauty, and memorable stops.

Final Thoughts on Calabria

While Calabria offers stunning views, charming towns, and unique experiences, I wouldn’t recommend visiting in December. The weather, with its chill and rain, limits the opportunity to fully enjoy the region. Instead, consider visiting in late September or October when the temperatures are milder. Personally, I wouldn’t plan a return trip to Calabria, as we found Sicily, Sardinia, and Puglia more appealing for warmer southern Italy adventures.