Aeolian Islands, Sicily, Italy
We flew from Montreal to Rome, Rome to Catania and could see the Aeolian Islands from the plane.
The Journey Begins: Transport Adventures
Transport was the word of the day:
Bus: 2 hours (booked in advance from Giuntabus from Catania airport to Milazzo).
Ferry: 1 hour to Lipari.
Cab: To our accommodation in Pianoconte, Lipari (€25 in November 2024). I took a picture of the number on the taxi when we arrived at the port and later used WhatsApp to contact him when we were ready.
Exploring Lipari
We visited Il Castello, which features a large piazza, a church, and an acropolis. Gluten-free options were easier to find in the grocery store near the port than in Pianoconte or restaurants.
We toured the island by motorino (scooter). Highlights included the Canneto boardwalk and Chiesa Vecchia (Old Church), which offered stunning panoramic views. If you visit, consider staying near the port and taking buses to the beaches. While we loved our accommodation with a wonderful view and a hot tub, convenience-wise, staying closer to the port might be easier.
Day Trip to Vulcano from Lipari
We took a 10-minute ferry to Vulcano, an active volcano emitting gases. The hike to the summit took about an hour. The weather was perfect—sunny but not too hot. The trail, made of soft black sand, was challenging to climb but easy on the knees. As we ascended, the terrain changed from red to beige rocks. Depending on the wind direction, you might encounter sulfur smells on parts of the trail.
Some hikers turned back the same way, but we opted to continue the loop, which offered new views. The descent was a bit trickier until the trail reconnected with the main route.
Tips:
Bring hiking gear and water.
Check the weather and dress appropriately (sunglasses, hat, windbreaker, sunscreen).
Salina Island: A Peaceful Retreat
The ferry to Salina was a rollercoaster ride due to wind and waves. Thankfully, we don’t get seasick! We stayed in Malfa, where the hotel upgraded our room and delivered our bags while we rented a motorino. A local grocery store owner informed us that most restaurants were closed, so we stocked up on what we could find—though gluten-free options were scarce. Fortunately, the hotel staff recommended a restaurant in the piazza.
The next morning, the view from our bedroom was breathtaking. With sunny weather, we visited Spiaggia dello Scario. The rolling rocks and crashing waves were incredibly relaxing. Although my husband found the water warm, the rocky and wavy conditions made swimming risky. If you want to swim, bring water shoes.
Later, we drove our motorino to Pollara, famous for its role in the movie Il Postino. Pollara features a beautiful beach (neither rocky nor sandy, more of a boat launch area) and a stunning sunset spot.
We also visited Sapori Eoliani, a caper farm. The owners explained that caper plants can live up to 100 years. Harvesting takes place in hot weather from May to July, with smaller capers being pricier due to their quantity, while larger ones have stronger flavors. The curing process involves repeatedly salting and transferring the capers between pots. We left with newfound knowledge and some delicious products.
Salina is lush, with many cats roaming around Santa Marina. One even blocked a restaurant door, which my husband found amusing as he filmed me being cautious—I’m always on guard around animals! Birds chirped more here than on other islands, adding to the serene atmosphere.
We also saw sailboats and catamarans in Pollara’s small alcove during sunset. We love being on the water, and had it been busier, we’d definitely have rented something.
Stromboli: The Active Volcano Island
The ferry ride to Stromboli was smoother but longer. Being off-season, only one restaurant and two grocery stores were open. Gluten-free options were limited, but breakfast was accommodating as we notified them in advance (it likely came from another island).
The volcano was very active during our visit, with constant smaller lava flows and larger explosions every 20–30 minutes. We climbed to the permitted height of 290m and stayed for 1.5 hours to enjoy the eruptions. As we climbed, excitement took over, and I quickened my pace—my husband noticed and joked about my enthusiasm.
It was windy and cold at the top, so gloves and a hat were lifesavers. Guided treks to higher altitudes were too expensive for just the two of us at this time, and the water wasn’t calm enough for a night boat tour.
An unexpected scare: While filming the eruptions, I crouched on a rock for stability. Out of nowhere, a rat scurried toward my phone! From that moment, we were on high alert.
During the afternoon, we went to the black sand beach, it was soft and non-sticky, perfect for searching for sea glass. Bring water shoes if you want to walk over the pebbles.
We learned about the island’s tsunami warning system (the last major wave was in 2002 due to a volcanic eruption). Stromboli also endures damage during heavy rain, causing mudslides. We arrived just two days after such an episode and saw locals tirelessly clearing streets with small excavators.
Our 20-minute walk with backpacks to our accommodation wasn’t bad, though Google Maps’ claim of a “mostly flat” route was a lie—there’s a noticeable uphill section. When leaving, we opted for a taxi, which was a golf-cart-style vehicle due to the narrow streets.
Tip: Keep your hands and feet inside these taxis!
Reflections on Mid-November in the Aeolian Islands
Temperatures ranged from 15°C to 20°C, but jackets were essential at night due to the wind. The god Aeolus (god of wind), according to Greek mythology, was very present during our stay!
In seven days, we took multiple ferries—some smooth, some choppy, and one resembling a rollercoaster. If you’re prone to seasickness, opt for a seat near the back.
Though thunderstorms were forecasted, rain mostly occurred at night or missed us altogether. The islands were quiet, with many hotels, stores, and restaurants closed for winter. While relaxing, the atmosphere lacked summer’s liveliness.
Tips for Each Island
Lipari: The largest and most populated. Stay near the port if you don’t want to rent a vehicle.
Vulcano: Hike the summit—bring sunscreen and water.
Salina: Lush and green, with picturesque beaches and sunsets in Pollara. A motorino is ideal for exploring.
Stromboli: A must for volcano enthusiasts. Visit in summer for guided tours to higher altitudes, if possible.
Where We Stayed and Ate
Lipari (3 nights): Sciara Eolie in Pianoconte.
Le Macine (Pianoconte): GF pizza (open weekends only in winter).
Cooked at the accommodation, buying chicken from a butcher.
Salina (2 nights): A’Alera Room & Breakfast in Malfa.
Ristorante Rosa dei Venti (Malfa piazza).
Sale, Amore e Vento (Santa Marina): GF involtini.
Stromboli (2 nights): Il Gabbiano Relais.
Zurro (near the port).
Final Thoughts
Would I visit again in November? Probably not. While it was wonderful to experience the Aeolian Islands during the quieter off-season, the lack of open restaurants, shops, and activities gave it a slightly deserted feeling. The islands, typically brimming with energy in the summer, felt as though they were in hibernation, preparing for the bustling season ahead.
That being said, the peace and solitude had their own unique charm. Each island gave us moments we’ll never forget: the thrill of standing near Stromboli’s eruptions, the serenity of a Salina sunset, and the raw beauty of Vulcano’s volcanic landscapes. I could almost feel the history of the islands—a mixture of myth, natural power, and timeless allure—embedded in every rock, beach, and village.
Salina was a surprise favorite for its lush, green landscapes and relaxing pace. Watching the sun sink into the sea at Pollara, I felt a sense of peace I hadn’t experienced in a long time.
Stromboli, though raw and rugged, was the highlight for me. I’ve dreamt of seeing its volcanic activity for years, and being there—standing under the stars, and watching lava explosions—felt surreal. It’s a reminder of how small we are compared to the earth’s forces.
Throughout our journey, I was reminded of the delicate balance that life on these islands requires. Learning about how water is pumped onto the islands, I developed a deeper appreciation for their ingenuity. Water, so readily available on the mainland, feels almost sacred here. It gave me pause and made me appreciate the preciousness of even the most basic necessities.
While November may not be the ideal time to visit for everyone, it gave us an intimate and personal connection with the islands. There’s something deeply humbling about experiencing places like these when they are at their most quiet, away from the crowds. We could really soak in the atmosphere, take our time, and connect with the islands on our own terms.
In the end, my husband and I left with a deeper appreciation of the Aeolian Islands—their natural beauty, their distinct personalities, and the way they seamlessly combine tranquility and adventure. These islands weren’t just a destination; they became a story we’ll treasure forever.
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